By Lisa Dempsey
A Three-Day Pilgrimage on the El Camino Mission Trail
This past week, I had the joy of completing the El Camino Mission Trail in San Antonio — a 12-mile journey through the city’s historic Spanish colonial missions, now designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Over the course of three mornings, I explored the trail alongside my Girl Camper friends by bike, walking, and car, soaking in centuries of history, natural beauty, and spiritual meaning.
The trail also tells the story of the Franciscan missionaries who arrived in the early 1700s to help Spain establish missions across what is now Texas. These friars, deeply committed to their faith, worked to build churches, support Indigenous communities, and spread Christianity. Today, their influence lives on in the mission walls, parish life, and peaceful spirit of each site.
Day 1: Mission San José and Our Camino Begins
To begin our journey, we started at Mission San José, known as the “Queen of the Missions.” Its impressive stonework and restored church make it one of the most complete and beautiful sites along the trail. We joined a 45-minute Park Ranger-led tour, which provided a powerful overview of the mission system — from the merging of Spanish and Indigenous cultures to the daily life of mission residents.
Afterward, we drove to the Padre Margil Pilgrimage Center to officially register our journey. We received special pilgrim passports to stamp at each mission, which we could later exchange for a completion certificate — a meaningful keepsake of our Camino experience.
Day 2: Espada’s Garden Magic and a River Trail Ride
The next morning, we got an early start to beat the Texas heat. This time, we began at Mission Espada, the southernmost mission and the oldest in Texas — and my personal favorite. Notably, it was obvious that its current-day parishioners lovingly keep it alive. A blooming garden greeted us as we arrived, and the whole place had a magical, peaceful feel to it that’s hard to describe but impossible to forget.
From there, we rented e-bikes on-site and rode along a beautiful, shaded trail that led us to Mission San Juan. The peaceful route followed the San Antonio River and offered glimpses of native wildlife and wildflowers.
On the way back to Espada, we took a short detour to visit one of the original aqueducts — an incredible feat of Spanish colonial engineering that helped supply water to the mission’s fields and residents. Standing beside it felt like touching a piece of living history.
Day 3: Biking the Riverwalk, Bells, and Breakfast Pastries
On the final day of our Camino, we began at Mission Concepción, where I rented another e-bike and some of my friends brought their own bicycles. From this mission, we rode along the San Antonio River Walk toward downtown, taking in the early morning quiet.
As we approached San Fernando Cathedral, the Sunday morning church bells rang out — a beautiful, serendipitous moment that added a spiritual touch to our ride. Naturally, we followed it with pastries and fresh orange juice at one of my favorite breakfast spots, La Panadería. (Highly recommend the almond croissant!)
Then, we made our way to the final stop: The Alamo. While it’s technically no longer part of today’s El Camino because it doesn’t function as a church, it was originally Mission San Antonio de Valero — and no trip along the mission trail would feel complete without it.
Celebrating the Journey
In the end, we broke up our Camino into manageable parts over three mornings, biking, walking, and driving between missions. While it’s very doable in one day, spreading it out allowed us time to truly appreciate each site.
On Monday morning, we returned to the Padre Margil Pilgrimage Center to receive our completion certificates. One of my Girl Camper friends even earned a Compostela Certificate for walking and biking the entire trail — a perfect companion to her previous Camino journey in Spain and Portugal.
Reflections from the Trail
Ultimately, traveling the El Camino Mission Trail was more than a sightseeing trip. It was a chance to reflect, connect with friends, and walk in the footsteps of history. Whether you’re a local or a visitor, walking or biking, I highly recommend taking the time to explore these missions. It’s a beautiful way to discover the heart of San Antonio, one mission at a time.
New Favorite Food Finds
Nichas Comida Mexicana – Get the Puffy Tacos! It is right around the corner from Mission San Jose.
Kunstler Brewing – Get the pretzel, try the pickles, and really, everything was amazing.
Check out more of Lisa Dempsey’s adventures here, https://girlcamper.com/a-year-of-firsts/. You can also join me, and other guides, at events all over the country. Sign up to be a Girl Camper today.
